[北京]Islam in China – Niujie Mosque

Happy New Year everyone, with 2018 under way I want to write more about my travels this year and see even more of the world. I’ve always wanted to tour Asia and this is still something I intend to do when I have time. Today I’ll be writing a more personal entry about my travels in Beijing, China.

I spent some time in Beijing and got to soak in a lot of the History from different eras. From Tianamen Square to The Forbidden City, the capital oozes culture and heritage into its modern structures today. I took the time to explore some of the other cultures that have embedded itself into Chinese society over time.

The majority of China identify as Chinese folk religion / unaffiliated. The teachings of : 三教合 (Three Teachings) is a harmony built on the foundations of Taoism, Confucianism and Buddhism. A trifecta of religion, philosophy and school of thought have helped shape China’s modern society. There have since been many political reforms and shifting perception of what is considered religious practice in China. What you might not know is that China is host to a number of minority ethnic groups and religions.

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I visited Niujie Mosque in the Xicheng District and got a glimpse of Islamic presence in Beijing.

Niujie and History

Islam makes up just under 2% of the entire Chinese population and has a long standing history dating back to around 616 AD. Over a thousand years in Chinese society and this can still be seen today. There is evidence of Muslim interaction dating back to Tang and Song Dynasties. Arab traders were gave exposure of the religion in China and a number of Mosques and Mausoleums have popped up over the years. I have really enjoyed learning about the Silk Road and will make about a post about this later.

Niujie Mosque is the largest in Beijing and was built during the Liao Dynasty. The Mosque has seen numerous renovations and even reconstruction due to invasion of the conqueror, Genghis Khan.

A Humble Visit

I was curious to know about Islam in China, how different is from the rest of the world? I have traveled to different parts of the Globe and Arab influences are prominent in most places. How different would my visit to Niujie Mosque be?

I decided to attend a Friday ‘Jummah’ Prayer at the mosque. I wanted to meet local people and experience the Friday sermon in Beijing.

Arriving at Caishikou station I was a little lost. I walk down the road and ask in my Broken Mandarin “Excuse me, where is Niujie Mosque?” I get a few blank stares but they eventually understand my poor accent. I get directions and I walk towards my destination.

Shortly after, a few restaurants catch my eye. I realise I have walked into the Muslim Community as almost every store, restaurant and butcher has Arabic scriptures on their windows. Halal food can be expected aplenty here.

I arrive at the mosque and can hear prayers being said in harmony. These are read in Arabic and I can see how busy it is as people enter the main prayer hall.

The architecture at the mosque was unique to me, I have never seen a mosque that does not adopt the domed architecture typically seen on Islamic structures. The entire building uses traditional Chinese décor and architecture. The red and Blue are vibrant and accented with gold Arabic calligraphy everywhere. This is an amazing sight, a peaceful yet exquisite place of worship.

I enter the main prayer hall and people are getting ready to attend the sermon. Many locals, tourists and foreign expats have come together for the Friday prayer.

The supporting beams and columns are decorated with contrasting patterns. The fans serve as ventilation, it wasn’t too hot on this particular day but I can imagine in summer these are definitely needed. The pictures don’t do the lighting justice here, the lanterns illuminate the hall, I wonder what kind of lighting was used when it was first built?

More people arrive including the lead figures of the mosque. They dress in distinct attire and a speech is given to the Muslim community. I could not understand this part but I asked a local person to briefly summarise.

The prayers concluded and what was once a room full of chatter and movement returned to complete tranquil. The pulpit on which the Imam (formal Islamic leader) maintains Chinese influence in its design.

I wander the courtyard, I chat with some of the locals and tourists. Niujie is open to all and I felt very welcome here. I come across a Stele of introduction which details the history and construction of the mosque. Maybe one day I will be able to read this myself.

This copper cauldron is used to prepare meat Congee on special days of the Islamic Religion. A unique practice in China, perhaps common place around China/Asia?

The female mosque was a welcome site, a dedicated area for women to pray.

The Mosque office and souvenir shop. It was interesting to see the mix of Islamic calligraphy and Chinese crockery.I was happy to buy a few things here, I might have been able to find similar items online but I like to buy things based on sentimental value sometimes. Strictly no bargaining here lol...

With the mosque now empty, it was time to leave. I pause for a moment and soak in my surroundings. I have been to many mosques around the world but this was truly one of most unique mixes of heritage to encounter.

Of course, I couldn’t ignore my appetite and went to sample freshly prepared noodles and Xianjiang Kebabs!

Overall, I felt a trip to Niujie Mosque would have been an opportunity missed if I did not visit. Connecting with people there was an experience that I will value for life and I encourage people to take a look if they are ever travelling around Beijing. Islam in China continues to interest me and so I hope to explore other regions (particularly in the North) and understand more as I delve into Chinese history.

Thanks for reading : )

Momosan

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